WHITE BALANCE IN D.PHOTOGRAPHY, (2)

In this picture, and the picture on the previous post of my grand son, the white balance was set to Incandescent that is 'bulb' setting, I shot photos in artificial light during night inside, but, just trying the shoot outdoors next day, the blue cast was very much destroying the natural look of daylight photographs. It was also difficult to correct the blue cast in photoshop, though I tried to remove the same, but unable to achieve the result I cud get in Auto mode or set the WB  to clear sun. Therefore, always look at the WB settings when shooting in various light situations, as indoors, under clear sun, Elect.Flash, overcast sky and/or in shade...However I too manage outdoors by setting WB on Auto, but definitely change while taking photographs inside in bulb or fluorescent lighting. A look at the chart below will be able to understand the temperature measurement, how in low temperatures the pic will get yellowish to red effect and in high temperatures the very much evident blue cast. However, it will also help to get some 'special effects' sometimes when u try them by shooting in different lightings with different WB settings on your camera.

Temperature Table

Candle Flame...............1500K

Incandescent..........3000K

Fluorescent........................3700K

Sunlight average/elect.flash...5500K

Overcast sky/clouds....6000-7000K

Shade................8000 K

Technically they are the average measurements, help u understand the warm (low) and cool (high) temperatures, but necessary in Digital cameras to set them as you click in variable lights. For novices Auto will help a lot outdoors and with built in or external flash.

WHITE BALANCE IN D.PHOTOGRAPHY.

1)While taking photographs, the photographer has to face many sources of lighting. And any source is not able to give u correct  rendering of colours in colour photography...The eye is befooled by different colours in the atmosphere, either natural or artificial. We feel them as natural as when we view them...But camera sensor is not accustomed as our eyes are while we try to capture them through the lens of our camera....Colour temperature is an objective measure of the colour of a light source and distributed in different wavelengths. The camera manufacturers have wisely chalked out 'AUTO' white balance to cope up with most of the conditions. However despite this measure, the colours have different temperatures as cool or warm i.e. higher and lower colour temperatures. Light sources with a higher colour temperature will render as blue tinge, while warm colour temperature will render as yellow tinged. Therefore, for the photographers who want correct colour rendering in their pictures, the white balance options are adapted to the temperatures as below (K=i.e.Kelvin method of measuring colour temperatures)...The normal white colour rendering is during direct sunlight as at noon time (not exact morning or evening), so the flash light is well calibrated as a daylight light source which is at 5000K to 5400K...giving u almost all colour rendering as correct untill and unless overwhelmed by other strong light source as halogen lamps, which will give yellow tinge, and this either u have to correct in photoshop or while printing, not hundred percent sure to remove it..this yellow tinge can follow while shooting with slow shutter speeds and there are more powerful halogens around as in marriages.........to follow (2).

EXPOSURE COMPENSATION IN DCAMs.

It is but natural when u take pictures from a camera, the light affects camera sensor...There are three meter settings: Matrix, centre-weighted and spot...Here in this photo ...EVENING FOG..I USED FIRST, which  is responsible for producing natural results in most situations. The camera sensor meters wide area of the frame and sets exposure as per tone distribution, colour & composition.

2) CENTRE-WEIGHTED: Camera sensor reads entire frame but mainly has great weight to centre area.

3) SPOT METERING: CAMERA WILL FOCUS CENTRE POINT. This metering ensures that the subject will be correctly exposed when background is much brighter or darker, as happens in morning and evening shots....Next for example, if photographer shoots from a window inside the room, the centre-weighted and spot meters will focus the area outside where u pointed your camera...However in this case the room's wall will look in silhouette, against the Matrix metering, which reads the whole frame and if more attention is on the inner walls, the outside area will be unsharp....so be careful in such situations...moreover u can try different meter settings avoiding worry at the time of composition whether from a room or outside. The exposure compensation mode is shown as square with + and - icons in it....

4) While shooting outside I keep -1/2 to - one stop down the aperture, avoiding over-exposure in many conditions....if slight under-exposed sometimes, the picture can be set right in PS, just increasing the brightness level....To handle an over-exposed photo is slight difficult losing tones/softer tones in the picture.